Don Morrison (mountaineer)

Morrison planned to lead his third expedition to the Ogre in 1977, but learned the Pakistan government had already granted permission to Doug Scott. While Morrison was deeply disappointed, he accepted the alternative peak offered by the Pakistan government, and in May 1977, departed with his expedition members Pat Fearnehough, Pat Green, Paul Nunn and Tony Riley for an attempt on the then unconquered Latok II (23,300 ft) lying just to the east of the Ogre

The first expedition into the Karakoram that year, the team established their Base Camp on 1 June near the Uzun Brakk glacier. Further camps were established below the slopes leading to the west ridge col and, after a delay by bad weather, by 20 June upon the west and east ends of that col. Climbing in separate parties over several days, the team climbed several sections above the col, reaching their highest point on 25 June 1977, reported as being about 2'000 feet below the summit.

Just weeks before departing on a 1971 expedition to climb Gasherbrum III, then the highest unclimbed mountain in the world, Morrison learned from the Pakistan Government that permission to climb the mountain at that time was impossible, but he had instead been granted permission to climb Baintha Brakk (23,090 ft.), another unattempted peak rising above the North side of the Biafo Glacier, in the Himalayas’ Karakoram range. One of the Karakoram's steepest, craggiest mountains, this formidable peak was already widely known as the ‘Ogre’, after the accounts of British explorer Martin Conway.

Departing 1 May 1971, the team travelled overland from Sheffield to Pakistan. Their flight to Skardu was followed by a further 100 miles by jeep and on foot to Askole, before they reached their first camp at the Biafo Glacier.

In July 1967, Morrison and fellow British climber, Lord John Hunt represented Britain in the Alpine Club of Canada's Centennial Expedition to the Yukon, with Morrison and Hunt among the 11 climbers chosen to be rope leaders. Morrison and his team made the first ascent of Mount Promenade (9,200 ft.), north of the Steele Glacier.

In 1958 Morrison was awarded the Alpine Club of Canada's Silver Rope for Excellence in Leadership and Technical Ability.

During the 1950s Morrison lived in North America. Joining the Alpine Club of Canada (ACC) in 1955, he climbed and guided extensively in the Rockies around Banff and Lake Louise. Among 14 first ascents made in the Rockies, Bugaboos, and Coast Range during this period were Mount Morrison (Alberta, 1955)], and Mount Jerram (1957) with Canadian climber, Jim Tarrant. In 1955 Morrison and Tarrant made the first ascent of the NE Buttress of Mount Odaray - deemed "one of the most formidable climbs in the country with Morrison leading the route:

Morrison's eight-man team also comprised: John Gregory, Gordon Hibberd, Ullah (Bill) Hidayat (Deputy Leader and team doctor), David Marshall, John Rousseau, Clive Rowland and Trevor Wright. As ongoing war and political conflict had blocked access to this part of the Himalayas for over a decade, Morrison and his team would be the first mountaineers since the 1950s to enter this area with some of the world's highest and most challenging unclimbed mountains. The expedition had the patronage of Lord John Hunt, and the support of the Royal Geographical Society and Mount Everest Foundation.

Donald Kenneth Morrison (19 March 1929 – 21 June 1977) was a British climber and mountaineer. Morrison first became known as a pioneer rock climber in Canada, then in England's Peak District and he led three expeditions to the Himalayas. He died in 1977 leading an attempt on Latok II peak in the Karakoram.