Günther Messner

In June 2022, Pakistani locals found the second shoe belonging to Günther. Picture of same is also posted by his brother Reinhold on Instagram.

On 17 July 2005, three local Pakistani guides found the remains of a climber at an altitude of 4,300 metres on the Diamir face an hour's climb above the Diamir base camp, near where Reinhold had believed Günther was lost. A search of the talus yielded a leather boot entombing a wool-socked foot and clothing which the climbers quickly realized could be the body of Günther Messner. Reinhold trekked to the spot and recognised the boot (a brown leather Lowa Triple Boot) and jacket on the body as those of his brother. Reinhold took the boot with him - with the bones still inside. The expedition doctor, Munich-based anesthesiologist Rudolf Hipp, harvested tissue samples for the DNA testing.

On 21 October 2005 scientists at the University of Innsbruck completed a DNA analysis of tissue samples from the remains, and confirmed that the remains were that of Günther. This evidence supported the version of events told by Reinhold, that Günther was on the west side of the mountain when he was killed and not on the descent through the Rupal Wall.

On 8 September 2005, the remains were burned at the foot of Nanga Parbat on a pyre in Tibetan tradition. Also borrowing from Tibetan tradition, Reinhold and his expedition team of 14 trekkers and two journalists built a chorten, a square-shaped stack of stones, as a monument. The participants sang "yelo Lak, the gods were merciful," and threw rice into the air.

Despite the undisputed DNA evidence controversy persists. Residual argument revolves largely around whether Günther perished in a fall near the summit, upper or middle part of the Diamir Face, versus toward the bottom, where Reinhold said he'd last seen his brother. The argument is based on glacial movement over a period of 35 years and the location where the remains were found. Saler has asserted that if Günther had died in the lower third of the face (as described by Reinhold) then the remains would have been found much lower than 14,110 feet (where they were reportedly recovered). The existence of a disputed handwritten note described in the 2003 book by von Kienlin, The Traverse, was allegedly a "confession" recorded by von Kienlin documenting a conversation between Reinhold and von Kienlin in a motel room in Gilgit, Pakistan, before they both returned home. The note says that "I lost Günther" and "For hours I was up there yelling for him. I don't know why, but he couldn't hear me. He was doing very badly. He didn't make it. Maybe he fell."

In July 2000, climber Hanspeter Eisendle found a human fibula at the base of the Diamir wall of Nanga Parbat. Due to the decomposition of the DNA, it could not be definitively determined at that time whether the bone belonged to Günther Messner - it was possible that the bone could have come from climbers who died on the mountain in 1962. A subsequent analysis at the University of Innsbruck strongly suggested that the owner of the fibula was Günther Messner.

Günther was a member of a 1970 expedition to Nanga Parbat led by Karl Herrligkoffer. Herrligkoffer had already organized six expeditions to Nanga Parbat and was said to be obsessed with the mountain after his half-brother, climber Willy Merkl, along with eight others, died on the peak in 1934.

On 26 June 1970 Günther, his brother Reinhold and Gerhard Baur were at Camp 5 watching for a signal rocket from base camp. Blue indicated good weather, red poor. Radio Peshawar reported good weather, so the expedition leader Herrligkoffer fired a rocket, but it exploded red, not blue. Consequently, Reinhold commenced a solo quick-and-light attack without gear shortly after 2 a.m. to avoid the presumed bad weather. Günther and Gerhard were still asleep. Reinhold had a difficult time finding his way up the Merkl Couloir by headlamp but emerged at dawn. At sunrise the next morning, Günther and Gerhard Baur were installing rope to aid Reinhold's return. Baur recounts the story that Günther did something impulsive in that he impatiently dumped the ropes they were fixing and sprinted into and then soloed the difficult Merkl Couloir. Günther and Reinhold reached the summit together late in the afternoon, when Günther started showing signs of exhaustion, possibly due to the effort he made in trying to catch up with Reinhold earlier in the day.

Günther Messner (18 May 1946 – 29 June 1970) was an Italian mountaineer from South Tyrol and the younger brother of Reinhold Messner. Günther climbed some of the most difficult routes in the Alps during the 1960s, and joined the Nanga Parbat-Expedition in 1970 just before the beginning of the expedition due to an opening within the team.