John Flett

John Flett was from a Jewish background, according to his friend and former "soulmate" John Galliano – who has described Flett as: "the love of his life". After studying fashion and textiles at West Sussex College of Design. He then moved on to Central Saint Martins (then St Martins), where he studied fashion under Sheilagh Brown. Brown would later say: "When John Flett came for his interview his work was incredible, one of the tutors said not to give him a place as he looked like trouble. I replied 'that kind of trouble I love'."

At Central Saint Martins, Flett was part of a hothouse of talent – both in fashion and the London scene; his early 1980s peer group included not only Galliano, but also Stephen Jones, Darla Jane Gilroy, Sade and Chris Sullivan.

He moved on to Paris to work for Claude Montana on the designer's debut collection for Lanvin. Flett relocated to Florence in 1990, where he worked for Italian designer Enrico Coveri on a menswear range (Coveri died in 1990).

Kevin Almond has said: "much of Flett's skill was in his cutting, intricate and inventive, with which he developed clothes that seemed to cling to the body. In fact, many of his garments were difficult to understand on the hanger and needed to be worn to be appreciated". Sue Chowles, who worked with him on his spring/summer 1989 collection as an intern while studying at the Royal College of Art, has described his technique in more detail: "he never pattern cut his designs – instead he would drape the fabric and create the pattern on a mannequin".

Not all his early catwalk collections attracted acclaim. Writing in The Times about his first show in spring 1988, Liz Smith said that he: "has to learn to polish his act". But there was no doubt about his appeal to most of the British press and fashion buyers. An interview and double-page spread of photos of his collection in The Observer described his autumn 1988 catwalk show as: "triumphant". The interviewer said Flett's trademarks were about intricacy, involving clever draping on items such as a backless dress with no visible means of support. She described his finale outfit as: "a wondrous white creation that looked like a cross between a meringue and a crinkle-cut crisp".

Despite the acclaim from both buyers and majority of the British fashion press, Flett was unable to sustain his business venture. His business affairs were described as a "rocky road" and he parted company with his backers in 1988/9.

From 1985, Flett became a part of the London high-fashion scene, exhibiting at London Fashion Week and at New York and Paris fashion weeks. Menswear was introduced to his range in 1986 and in 1987 he added a diffusion (lower-priced) line. By 1988, John Flett designs were available worldwide in 70 stores.

John Flett (28 September 1963 – 19 January 1991) was a British fashion designer who achieved early success with his own brand before designing briefly for Claude Montana. He died of a heart attack at the age of 27, while working in Florence.