Viktor Horsting

Imperfection was the central concept of Viktor & Rolf’s most recent haute couture collection. Recalling the message of recycling from the Vagabonds, Boulevard of Broken Dreams pairs contrasting patterned fabric with a fantastical and delicate colour palette. The recycled layers appear almost like shards of glass placed onto Viktor & Rolf’s signature exaggerated couture forms. The designers chose to consciously exploit such imperfections, following the Japanese principle of Kintsugi by gilding faults and seams in gold. The aesthetic and intention of the collection was summarised by critic Suzy Menkes: "The patchwork of grandeur was as pretty in its choice of colour as it was in the feminine shapes. And if recycling could be this elegant, maybe it could draw more fashion people to the party."

The ideas of momentum and growth were of central importance in the 2015 haute couture collection. To visualise the central concept, Viktor & Rolf adopted the quintessential summer outfit of a floral sundress, flip flops and a straw dress, and transformed the imagery into three-dimensional sculptural pieces. The collection escalated from a simplistic Baby Doll silhouette into extravagant couture pieces. Floral outlines evolved into three-dimensional fabric flowers, as simple straw hats extended laterally to connect with the pleated dresses. The evocative colours and black graphic outlines present throughout the garment collection were reminiscent of Dutch painter Vincent van Gogh, of whom the collection was aptly named after. Van Gogh Girls is not only an exercise in exaggerating forms and imagery, but additionally showcased the close relationship between artists and fashion designers.

After a thirteen-year hiatus from creating haute couture, Viktor & Rolf re-established themselves as with the Zen Garden (Autumn/Winter 2013-14) collection. Below are small summaries of Viktor & Rolf’s most recent haute couture designs.

Initial collections established the extravagant silhouettes, witty use of materials and irreverent concepts the designers would come to be known for. In 2000, Viktor & Rolf launched their company logo of a wax seal bearing the monogram V&R, and began to devote their artistic talent to ready-to-wear collections. In 2003, the designers launched a Menswear collection which co-existed alongside the women’s line until 2009. Additionally, Viktor & Rolf created perfumes: the female fragrance Flowerbomb (2004) and the male fragrance Antidote (2006). In 2015, the designers halted ready-to-wear production and returned once more to haute couture citing that they wanted to "explore the limits of wearability, function and form."

Viktor & Rolf is a fashion house which specialises in creating conceptual and avant-garde designs. It was founded in 1993 by Dutch designers Viktor Horsting (born 1969, Geldrop) and Rolf Snoeren (born 1969, Dongen). For more than twenty years Viktor & Rolf have sought to challenge preconceptions of fashion, and bridge the divide between fashion and art. Viktor & Rolf have designed both haute couture and ready-to-wear collections. The duo is renowned for their avant-garde designs, which rely heavily on theatrical and performative fashion runways.

Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren first met while studying at the Arnhem Academy of Art and Design in 1989. Upon graduation in 1992, the pair began working together and relocated to Paris. Initially, Viktor & Rolf were shunned by the fashion industry, however, the designers were received well by the art world. Subsequently, art institutions such as the Groninger Museum began to acquire garments from the designers.